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Tractor Supply Barn Door Hardware

DIY Barn Doors (22)I showed you in an earlier post How to: DIY Faux Barn Doors  how I built my barn doors. This post will tell you how not to install a barn door.  Just kidding-but I felt like these doors were never going to be up.
These are the parts I bought from Tractor Supply. They are only available in the store, not online.




Tractor Supply Barn Door HardwareIpurchased one of these box rails.

Tractor Supply Flexible HangerBecause I have two doors, I had to purchase two sets of these flexible hangers.

Tractor Supply Barn Door HardwareI purchased 2 of these brackets to hold the box rail on the wall.

Reciprocating Saw Cuts Boxrail

The box rail was 8 feet long, and I needed it to be about 7 feet long. I cut it off with my reciprocating saw.

Krylon Stainless Steel Paint

The pieces are galvanized.  I wanted them to be stainless to match other items in my kitchen—ceiling fan, kitchen accessories, and hinges. I used Krylon Stainless Steel spray paint. You can see the difference between the brackets and the box rail part I cut off.

Tractor Supply Barn Door HardwareI didn’t paint the hangers (rollers).

Installing door Hardware (barn door)

To install the hangers, I needed to drill a hole in the top of the door for each bracket/hanger.

Installing door Hardware (barn door) (4)

To do the holes, I used a bracket to mark the three bolt holes and the large hole in the top for the hanger bolt.

Installing door Hardware (barn door) (3)I used a 3/4 inch paddle bit to drill the hole in the top of the door.

Installing door Hardware (barn door) (6)I placed the bracket 3 inches from the edge of the door.

Installing door Hardware (barn door) (9)I marked the holes with a Sharpie, then used a 3/8 inch paddle bit to drill them.



Installing door Hardware (barn door) (8)

You can see with the bracket on the door, the large bolt in the hanger fits in the hole in the top of the door.

DIY Faux Barn Door

This is where things got really rough.  The Accent Piece used two 2×4’s for their box rail. I decided to go with a 2×6 instead.  I initially used deck screws to attach it to the wall.
When I brought the doors in. . .

.  .  .  and measured it to the 2×6, it was clearly too low on the wall.  I knew this was going to be a challenge for me when I started.  I had a really difficult time wrapping my brain around the (dead space) from the top of the bracket (door) to where the box rail would actually go.   I couldn’t really “see” it until I brought the doors inside.  I had to move the 2×6 higher on the wall.
What follows is NOT pretty folks.


I don’t even have pictures of all the things that went wrong.   I removed the 2×6 and decided to use lag screws instead of the deck screws.  I drilled pilot and countersink holes.   I put the 2×6 back up.
The reason I don’t have pictures of the next few steps is because I was having a meltdown.  MAJOR meltdown. I felt like this was never going to work at this point.
I had to take the 2×6 down. I drilled the countersink holes big enough for the head of the lag screw, but didn’t take in account the size of the socket that I was using on my drill to drive them in. In order to get two of the screws out, I had to remove the socket from the drill, tap it hard with the hammer to get it in the wood, then put the drill on it, chuck it, and unscrew the lag screws.
More tears and tantrums.
When I purchased the lag screws, I also picked up a 2×8 because lo and behold that is what the directions called for.   I cut and painted the 2×8 and asked begged for some help.  Two hands are not enough to handle and install a 7 ft 2×8.
While the paint dries on the 2×8 . . .



whoa!  who shot up my wall with a machine gun?  LOL  I used a nail to find the studs, that didn’t work. I then tried a  stud finder, and it was giving a false reading.  I used my drill.  I feel like I need to give a little history of this wall.  Back in the day, before I moved here, this was a doorway to the outside, then to a breezeway. Finally someone enclosed the breezeway and made a room on the other side of this doorway.  A few years ago, when the kitchen was remodeled drywall was added over the original sheetrock of this wall. LOTS of layers—no wonder the stud finder didn’t work.


I used a piece of wire to push into each of the holes to see if it went all the way in, or if it hit a 2×4.  I know 16 inch centers, sometimes 24 inch centers.  NONE of that was working. The good news is, this will all be covered up with the new 2×8.

IMG_2778I marked the holes that hit lumber.  It appears there is some sort of beam going across.

Tractor Supply Barn Door Hardware

Typical installation would be to put the box rail up, then attach the brackets to the doors, then slide the doors into the box rail.  But, remember where this door is going, it is blocked off on both sides.  I had to put the flexible hangers in the box rail before I attached it to the 2×8.

Tractor Supply Box Rail for Barn Door

No pictures of the new 2×8 in progress.   I did learn from my mistakes. I drilled a pilot hole and a large countersink hole so the socket would easily drive the lag screws all the way in.  In this picture you can see that I used painter’s tape to keep the hangers from rolling around during this step. On the right, you can see that the bracket has been attached to the 2×8 to hold the box rail.  On the left you can see that the box rail is being supported by the messed up  2×6 to give tired arms a break.
While the 2×6 is holding up the box rail, I used the level on the box rail. (I also used the level on the 2×8)  After making sure the box rail is level, I drilled a pilot hole and inserted at 3/8 2” lag screw to the 2×8.  (I used a ratcheting  socket for this lag screw)

Now it’s time to attach the doors.  Remember I have pre-drilled all the holes for the bolts. The brackets (in the above picture) have turned around backwards.
Installing door Hardware (barn door) (8)

Remember this earlier picture?  The flexible hangers pivot, allowing the doors to be swung up off the floor, allowing me to get to the bolts.
These flexible hangers can be adjusted to raise/lower your door, and to set your door closer, or further away from your 2×8 or door frame.


Tractor Supply Box Rail

This is how the door was installed. The bottom bolt was inserted on both brackets, and the nut attached. This allowed the door to be swung up off the floor slightly in order for me to get to the other four bolts (that are normally restricted by the door frame).

DIY Barn Doors


You can see that I didn’t fill the holes where the lag screws are. I may or may not leave them industrial looking.  You can’t really see it, but there is an “end cap” on the right to keep the doors from sliding out of the box rail. It is of course not necessary for me, but it gives it a more finished look.

Tractor Supply Barn Door Hardware

You can see the difference in the color of the door and the walls. I’m not thrilled with the glossiness of the paint.

Tractor Supply Barn Door Hardware

I am however thrilled with my new Do It Yourself Barn Doors!   The left slides to the left, the right slides to the right, and that leaves about a 32 inch opening.

Tools I used:

  • Reciprocating Saw (to shorten box rail)
  • Drill
  • bits
  • Hammer
  • 7/8 inch socket (for the large nuts on the flexible hangers used for adjusting the door height etc)
  • open ended wrench for 12 bolts holding the door on the bracket.


  • Level-self explanatory
  • 11/64 bit for pilot holes (lag screws)
  • 3/8  paddle bit for 12 holes in top of the door (brackets)
  • 7/16 socket to drive lag screws through 2×8 into the wall
  • 3/4 paddle bit for holes in the top of each door (for large hanger bolt)
  • 3/4 paddle bit was also used to drill countersink holes in 2×8 so I could use the 7/16 socket.
  • 1/4 x 3” lag screws (hold 2×8 on the wall)

Not included in the Tractor supply hardware-

  • 3/8 x 2” lag screws for box rail hanger (2) (not pictured)
  • 1/4 x 3” lag screws (I used  12 for 7 ft)


Barn Door Hardware

Tractor Supply Barn Door Hardware

I love them!  It was an expensive project, my most costly DIY by far! But, if you shop around online, the hardware alone (real barn door hardware can run upwards of $500, not counting doors)



faux barn door (handles) I found some great handles at The Home Depot.  Love them!

faux barn door (handles)

What’s behind the doors? That non-purpose room that needs to be updated. It’s where the cats eat and sleep. They do have the run of the house, but mostly prefer that room because the blinds are always open and they have a great window seat that is heated in the winter time. I now have to keep the doors cracked open so they can go in and out of the room. Initially I planned to put in a little “mouse hole” at the bottom left of the left door. Any thoughts on that?


EDITED TO ADD:  I updated the door on the left to allow the cats to have access to their room.
This is kitty using the door

My goal is to keep this little guy out of their room.   :)

If you want the details see my post: A Mouse Hole for the Cats



How it looks now:


Check out other door projects here:

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A teacher at heart, Gail relishes the chance not to show off her projects, but to help others find their inner handywoman, step-by-step. Her blog, MyRepurposedLife.com, chronicles her scrap-saving adventures and has been featured on countless DIY magazines and websites, including Women’s Day, Design*Sponge and Apartment Therapy. She is a longtime influencer for both Krylon spray paint and Gorrilla Glue. With a tribe of more than 400,000 followers, Gail is inspiring a new generation of DIYers to pick up some tools and get to work.
About gail@myrepurposedlife.com


    Speak Your Mind


  1. Loved this . Going to copy similar look. I recently installed a cat bathroom located next to my powder room…takes 24 x 28 floor space not counting walls and used a 4 x 10 plastic air vent with the interior fins jig sawed out to trim the whole in the wall which is up off the floor approximately 12 inches. The cat jumps inside of a plastic storage tub that I cut an adjacent hole into …to change the litter there is a 2×3 ft door on opposite wall. You have 3 choices of which wall u install your 2×3 door on. Tub pulls out and it is a breeze to change the cat litter.

  2. Gai,

    Love what you did!!! I am attempting to do the same at my house but with a low ceiling. What is the measurement from the top of the wall bracket to the top of the door? The measurement from the ceiling to the bottom of the door jam is 4 1’2 in. I am planning to use a 2×6 like you did with your first attempt.

    • Alvin,

      If I understand what you’re asking, it’s 7″. I measured from the silver bracket (on the wall) to the top of the door. It’s adjustable a little. Mine is set high, but I think it could still be lowered a little.

      good luck!


      • I have a similar project to do, like your white suspended doors.
        Even the opening between the sunroom and the dining area LOOKS THE SAME.
        And the history of the wall opening is very much like yours.
        I would send you a picture, if possible.
        This opening is 57″ wide, so I bought two used (solid pine) french doors, each 30″ wide.
        Will need to be suspended from the TOP of opening.
        I am having a handyman come out to give me an estimate soon.
        I don’t need the stress/drama of trying to do it myself. Not as young as I used to be!

  3. Hello Gail, well i think you did a very nice job!!!…however ( please don’t be offended ) i would have painted all of the hardware wrinkle black to offset the rest of the kitchen and i think it would really accentuate the door and all your hard work…. Regards on a job well done…

  4. LOL! I totally know where you’re coming from with the MELTDOWN!! I don’t know how many times I’ve had things go wrong and look just like the picture with all the holes. GREAT job! Looks really FANTASTIC! Love the mouse hole for the kitties, I have cats too! :)

  5. Fabulous! Phew! As you described your difficulties, I could feel it at a gut level. I had flashbacks of equally daunting, wrenching DIY projects. So grateful for your tenacity! Terrific tutorial. Thank you so very much. Your doors are a masterpiece! xo

  6. alice michel says:

    i love the barn door idea….do you know if you can do the same thing but instead of a wall bracket mount there is a ceiling bracket mount….and then a longer rod/screw in the flexible hanger? trying to hang a mirror with some scroll work at the top so there is almost a 6 inch gap between the track and the mirror sides.

  7. Great instructions on the barn door. They look great. It is good that you wrote about your mistakes and frustrations. I’ve been there and it is so easy to give up.Thanks

  8. mike mitchell says:

    Hi…..You did a great job documenting this project!
    I’m a professional contractor and have mounted lots of these box rail and single rail doors. I repair Ginger Bread houses on Martha’s Vineyard as well as build barns off-Island (I own a farm).
    First, what makes your article great is your talk about mistakes…all of which I have made over the last 40 years.
    Yes, when using lag bolts, first drill a larger hole so the bolt will be counter sunk and the socket can fit over it.
    Also, don’t use regular lag bolts. Instead use Timberlocks, which are specially designed to not need a pilot hole.
    Also, be careful about putting holes in walls, even above door frames. I used to be an electrician and we would sometimes run wires in the dead space above the door….
    To lift a heavy door so you can adjust the nut on the roller bolt at the top, use a cats paw or a crow bar under it. If you need to raise it higher, put a scrap of 2×4 on the floor, the crow bar on top of it, hook one end under the door and press down with your foot.
    My barn doors are 300 lbs each and this is how I adjust them.
    The person who had the two box rails and the roller was getting stuck…I weld mine together and grind it down so they are always in the correct planer and don’t buckle.
    And removing plaster…..if it is horse-hair plaster on lath boards, it can be messy since it can break past where you cut. I use a cisular saw to cut it and finish the rest with my sawzall.

    I hope this helps your readers….
    Remember, it has taken me 40 years of making mistakes as a licensed contractor and a farmer to finally get it right!!

    • Mike,

      Thank you so much for taking the time to read my article and give feedback! (and putting a positive spin on it) Those who stop by this very popular page will benefit from your advice.

      I truly appreciate your comment!


  9. Great project and thanks for sharing your trials, very helpful as I embark on a similar project. Question though, how do you open your doors? It appears to have only a few inches to slide to the right before hitting the cupboards and what looks to be about 16″ to the left behind the computer desk. I have a similar space and am planning to use a double rail system so both doors can be opened to the same side and expose a full doorway. Did you consider this option to have more useable door space?

    • Rob,

      When I need to pass through the door, I move the right door to the right, or the left door to the left. When both doors are fully slid open, they width is about the side of a regular doorway.
      No, I didn’t even consider a double rail system. Good luck with your install, I think you will love your new doors.


  10. Where did you buy the door? Or did you make it also? Thanks, looks great!!

  11. I Really do like your doors, and the hardware to install them seems to be a favorite. But “Oh, My Lord!”, seeing what you did to the sheetrock wall……….! One of the things I do less of these days is professional drapery installation. But now I just pretty much install the things I make for my interior design clients. This includes cornices, valances, shades, and yes, draperies. But if I ever did to the walls what I have just witnessed, I would be out of work very quickly. LOL!

    When I’m installing and need to locate a stud, I always take along some longer size ‘T’ pins, which I use in my sewing jobs . I find stud finders next to worthless. The ‘T’ pin is easy to push in, and leaves only the tiniest hole behind. I always keep some in the Tupperware “stow and go” that I have attached to the top of my installation ladder, along with my screws and other installation tools. I also carry along a tube of regular Colgate toothpaste in the van which not only cleans teeth, but also fills holes that can tend to be embarrassing.

    Anyway, Great Job! I have a designer client crying for me to get into this sliding door making thing for her. I guess I’m going to have to make her a few doors in order to make her happy, and also help pay the bills.

  12. How do you keep the doors from swinging out at the bottom? Also do they rub against the wall when you open them? Thanks Erin

    • Erin,

      The only time the doors swing out at the bottom are when one of the animals forces their way into the kitchen…. like when the cat and the dog get in a rumble. :)
      They do not rub against the wall or the trim on the wall. The hardware on the top is adjustable up, down in and out. I LOVE my doors still.


  13. Michelle Brinkley says:

    I was wondering how much noise the rollers make? Is it smooth and easy to open the doors? Any problems with the hardware over the last two years?

  14. We have a problem with our rails when hung they get stuck at the joint of 2nd piece of rail.It is lined up and butts perfectly against the other piece? We are mounting the rail on a cinder block wall. The brackets that hold the rail do not pinch the rail. What can we do to get this to roll properly? Thank you Terry

    • I’m sorry, I don’t know the answer. My box rail is all one piece. I just hung another door with two rails, but the hardware was totally different–they weren’t box rails. The door glides great, but little pulley like wheels rest on the rail.

      I’m sure that is frustrating. Is it the same kind of hardware I used?

  15. They told me the Flat Tax would not fly as it has too many flaws.
    As many times as that old mechanical clock passed through owners,
    each seller was supposed to pay taxes on it. Here you can talk about the past job experiences,
    skills and accomplishments.

  16. Jeramy Maher says:

    I would love to know what material you used and the description of how you made the doors!!!

  17. Hello
    can you please tell me how did you paint the galvanized steel? Did you prepare it before allying the spray?
    Thank you

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

      I didn’t do a primer, but I would suggest doing a light sanding of the metal first, with a 220 grit sandpaper

      I love that stainless steel paint from Krylon

  18. Very nice, and I’ll probably use this idea on a finished basement door separating living area from utilities. My only comment is that the track support brackets are stamped 24″ O.C. That means 24 inches on center. That is, they should be spaced a minimum of 24 inches apart at the center of the bracket. It appears you only have 2 brackets for a 7 foot span. You probably should have at least another bracket up there.

    • Jeramy Maher says:

      they also only have a weight limit of 3lbs???? so I don’t think it matters, unless plan on sandwiching them next to each other all the way down the rail… which still would not be enough support, according to the item description

  19. Hi Gail,

    Thank you for sharing. I have been looking all over trying to find a cheaper version on barn door and hardware.
    Your explanation was really clear.

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

      Thanks for stopping by Sandrine.

      I am hosting an $800 giveaway tomorrow from Real Sliding Hardware. Stop back by to enter. :)


  20. HI I am planning to do a similar install. One thing I still can’t wrap my mind around is how these particular flexible hangers can be adjusted to move the door closer or further away from the door frame. I see how the hanger bolt can be used to raise/lower the door, but I don’t see how the wide bracket opening can be used to adjust the door laterally since the bolt is fixed in the top of the door. Any explanation/help would be appreciated!

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

      It’s difficult to explain. :)

      They are adjustable to raise and lower (off the floor) as well as to and from the door frame. There are nuts that tighten to enable these adjustments. Brilliant really. Yes, they are difficult to adjust once the door is up, but it is doable. I find it difficult to get them just right any time I take them down. (which I must do to move any furniture in and out of my house)
      I really do love my barn doors.
      I am hosting an $800 giveaway tomorrow from Real Sliding Hardware. Stop by and check it out.


  21. Staci Wightman says:

    Great Job! I love the look. I also never want to attempt something like that especially not on my own lol. I think I will stick to some smaller around the house projects for now. We have all hollow doors and I would love to change them out someday for solid doors. But I am not even ready to attempt that just yet. You inspire me to think a little bigger. Someday.

  22. I have been following your blog for some time now. I wonder how I miss this tutorial. It’s great. You inspire me to not be skittish about taking on what to me would be big projects . Like the cat door .

  23. Great tutorial! Especially like the cat slicer feature.

  24. NW Artisan Hardware says:

    Wow, Gail… what a detailed post on how to install sliding doors! Wished you would have found us for your equipment. I liked that you were so thoughtful about your cat. Sure, the paint is probably a tad bit glossy, but overall the doors look pretty darn good! Good work Gail!

  25. I’m going to do this project as well, but I’m going to try and make them bypass doors since I don’t have enough wall space. I think I can make it work if the brackets are strong enough…

  26. I just finished this project. Menards had the main hardware pieces and track etc. for a grand total of $145. I did not check, but I imagine Home Depot has the same I found them in the building materials area.

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

      I’m guessing you may live in a rural area. I’m 99.9% positive my Home Depot doesn’t carry this. I know they didn’t when I installed it last year. It sounds like the price is pretty comparable if you installed one door. If you installed two doors, you got a deal!

  27. HI Gail, thanks so much for the photos of the step-by-step of this barn door track install! I am going to do a similar project on a single shed door, and I already have all of the hardware, but I couldn’t find ANYTHING in a video or instruction sheet on how to install this hardware. I was getting to the point of where to mount the track versus where the door will be in the opening, when your 2×6 to 2×8 experience showed me what I needed to know. Everything you can find for on line instruction is for interior doors with more ornate hardware than this.
    I really appreciate the help!

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:


      I’m happy that you were able to find the info you needed by looking at my mess. :) Thanks for stopping by and taking the time to leave me a comment. Good luck with your door!


  28. love this! Featuring you on the blog tomorrow! Thanks so much for linking up with OPC and the DIY village to support Habitat4Humanity. Hope to see back tomorrow night. facebook.com/oneprojectcloser

  29. Now that looks fantastic! Thanks for sharing this tutorial!!

  30. Patricia Mentink says:

    For years I have wanted to do such a project for the door leading to the bathroom, but could not afford the hardware until I found your site. Thank you so much for showing me how I can do it. I’m sure I will have the Swiss cheese wall but, being from Wisconsin, I don’t care, That too can be fixed.

  31. I love this! We have an end of the hallway bookshelf that we are trying to turn into a linen closet and this is a great idea for how we can keep some shelves visible with books/decorative things and then some sliding barn doors to cover the linen shelves and make it look interesting. Bad description but it totally works in my head! Thank you for the inspiration.

  32. Brilliant!!! Well Done! Thanks for the tips! Looks beautiful! I’m doing this on my next Barn! I will also link this page to my blog! Cheers!!

  33. Hi
    Just a thought. If you had cut away the drywall and mounted the 2X8 directly to whatever was behind it you would 1) move the door closer to the wall, 2) know if whatever was behind the wall would support the doors and 3) save a lot of drilling, nailing and so on. In an older building you never know what Murphy left behind! Hindsight, but worth thinking about next time. I wish I had documented turning an old carport (post and beam with a lot of leftover and mismatched scrap wood) into a heated weatherproof shop. I invented a new curse word every five minutes for a couple of months, but It is worth ints weight in gold to get the mess and fuss out of the house.

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

      Chuck! Where were you when I did this? hahahah

      I never would have thought about doing the removal of the drywall. I see what you are saying, and it would have been a great solution. As for saving time and trouble, I’m not so sure. I know there was drywall OVER plaster. I’ve never cut through plaster, so I would have for sure had to figure all of that out.
      A company has offered me new hardware, and I didn’t want to accept it because the holes are already drilled into my doors.

      As for moving the door closer to the wall, the Tractor Supply hardware allows for that adjustment.

      Thank you so much for stopping by and taking the time to leave a comment on this post! I really, really appreciate your input.


  34. A million thank you’s. I’ve been looking for something like this for a long time. AND there is a Tractor Supply store on my corner. You are brilliant!

    • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

      Thank you! I too spent a great deal of time trying to figure out how I could do this on a budget. Other options were overpriced and way out of my reach. Good luck!

  35. I was just looking at these doors again…and I had to make a MRL board on Pinterest…I realized I’d not done this!
    Anyway…a question about your door.

    When the doors are closed, is there a gap between the barn door and the door trim (opening)?
    I noticed you had decorative trim around the door jam(?) …and there is definite thickness with the header and rail, would it be ok to beef up the trim around the door in order to get some what of a seal?

    I didn’t see this in the comments either…so I’m asking it here for future readers. :)

    Thanks! Patricia

    • Yes, there is a slight gap. The tractor supply hardware is adjustable to make the door higher or lower, AND to make it closer or further from the jamb.
      The door would sit closer to the jamb, making a tighter seal if the track were mounted directly to the wall as opposed to the 2×8 that I used.


  36. A mouse hole, by all means! Cut one near the floor, shaped like an upside down “U,” just like in the cartoons.

  37. They look great, thank you for posting this – exactly what I’ve been looking for.

  38. Jo Morrison says:

    I really appreciate your in depth explanation and pictures!! NICE!!! I’m doing a door for my bathroom and this really helps. The mouse hole? If you or a friend are artistic, paint it on so it looks like a mouse hole w/out having to cut. Paint a mouse near the hole too!
    LOL when you were explaining the frame board above the door. My wall is lathe and plaster, so I can hardly wait to deal with that.
    I’ll head off to tractor supply and save some money! thanks to you…
    Jo in IL

    • Jo–happy to help out! I really Need the mouse hole for the cats. I still have to keep it cracked open to let the cats pass through. :)
      good luck with your project!

  39. Anonymous says:

    Forgot,Great Job!!!

  40. Anonymous says:

    I live on a farm and so I am familiar with this specific barn door hardware. I had often wondered how it would look on an interior door…I think you did a great job and it looks wonderful! Guess I will definitely be going to Tractor Supply soon. Thanks for the tutorial!

    • I’m glad you found me, and were happy with what you saw. :) I found that Tractor Supply was the least expensive option.


    • Anonymous says:

      I found Lowes to be cheaper than TSC in my area(Lincolnton NC) but not all Lowes carry it. Lowes $18.97 for a 8′ rail, $29.99 @ TSC, Lowes $30.28 for a pair of rollers W/end caps, $44.99 @ TSC and Lowes $4.47 per rail hanger, $6.99 @ TSC(I used 4) it says to use 1 every 24″, I used 4 for my 6′ section.
      $67.13 @ Lowes $103.23 @ TSC.

    • Thanks for the breakdown. I think my Lowes is too urban to have them. I did look there before I bought them at Tractor Supply. The tractor supply I visited was on the outskirts of town. :)
      I appreciate you letting us know!

  41. Anonymous says:

    What did you use for a bottom guide?

    • If you scroll up and look at the pictures, third from the bottom, you’ll see that I didn’t use anything for a guide. My doors open and close great, and even swing a little when the pets scoot in and out of it when it is cracked open.
      I never even considered using a roller or guide on the floor.

      • I have horse stall sliding doors and they get out of balance and are almost IMPOSSIBLE to open and close. I usually ask the owner to fix it ; but, I don’t want to wait for him and I would rather know how to do it myself can you help me??
        Thanks! Elaine

        • gail@myrepurposedlife.net says:

          funny you should bring this up. I took one of these doors down yesterday, and worked for a long, long time to get it straight. Mine have to be taken down to adjust, it’s a big job and takes 2 people.
          I’m afraid I can’t really tell you how to do it, as it is probably different than my tractor supply hardware.


  42. Anonymous says:

    thanks for the help….I am in the middle of building my barn doors right now! They are so heavy! I am going to start off with the 2×8 to be safe. That is the hardest part to me as well…

  43. Anonymous says:

    I found the best prices for sliding barn door hardware on:


    They ship those long pieces of box rail, hangers and brackets right to your door… and they also ship them same day or next business day. It’s definitely worth checking with them. Also very helpful.
    Great job on your doors.
    Thanks for sharing,

  44. Molly Ked–I didn’t remove the door frame. The rail makes the clearance just fine.
    Sorry about the “dangerous” warning…

    Thanks for stopping by!


  45. Hello there,
    I was so sad when i tried to find your site, which i had saved as a favorite and my silly “guard software” showed this site as “dangerous”…really? The official Barn Door Hardware people must be terribly pissed not to be making a gagilion dollars in profit! You go TSC! I use them often and lovingly for my chicken feed – I have 5 laying hens in a suburb of Charlotte, NC. They are the best girls. Anyhoo…I would very much like to put a sliding door between our half bath and full bath that are connected but use a traditional 24” door to separate the space today. Do I need to removed the door moulding? or will the box railing offer enough clearance? Still need privacy but want the look. Thanks for any thoughts.

    Molly Ked

  46. Oh, I love this! I actually found your post awhile ago on pinterest but have no where to really put a door this size!
    Thanks so much for linking up and grabbing a button. Good luck and feel free to follow us on facebook for all the contest updates!

  47. Marcykali–I hope you come back to see this answer… I had no way to reach you, because you are a no-reply comment blogger. :(

    The end caps were in the box with the hangers (that go on the door) I didn’t know what they were at first, so I bet they’re there, you just didn’t notice them.


    • Thanks Gail, you are right they are in the box and I had no idea what they where for. I have not yet started because of the terrible heat we are experiencing this weekend in Ohio, however I can’t wait to start. Thanks again or the idea. I’m a little bit worried about cutting off the box rail to the size I need, but I’m sure wih the right blade it will work out.

  48. I foud the same hardware at Lowes, and it was a little bit cheaper. However I could not find an end cap? Did you find that at TSC as well? Great job by the way, this is my weekend project. Looks amazing!!!

  49. I had the EXACT same problems you did when I installed my barn door. We could have shared tears. The biggest challenge is that the track is boxed in on either end. Tightening the bolt to the door was a royal pain and if I ever change my flooring I don’t want to know what will happen if I have to turn that bolt one more time.

    Love the detail on your barn door and the handles you choose. I still have to find a handle! One of those things I just haven’t done yet. Maybe soon :)

  50. I once stayed in a hotel that had a Chunky crown molding over the whole track assembly. It created a much less rustic look. I like them both rustic and gussied up. Barn doors make sooooo much sense to me, no door swing to account for.

  51. I’m so crazy for barn doors & yours turned out so fabulous. Thanks for this really great tutorial too!

    Warmly, Michelle

  52. When I first saw these, I wanted some, now I want you to come make me some 😉 Glad you worked it all out because they are awesome!!!

  53. I saw it on Pinterest and came to see. I am following your Pinterest boards now. Do you have this tutorial pinned?

    I love this look.

  54. Gail, it looks really great! I’m glad I could give you a few pointers :) Sorry you had a melt down…it kinda makes you appreciate it more now, huh? hah I know the feeling. They look wonderful!

  55. While the process was a PITA, the final result is amazing!! I so want a barn door in our family room but there are SOOO many other projects ahead of that on the list. I would love it if you would share this on my linky party Tout It Tuesday. http://www.claimingourspace.com/2012/06/tout-it-tuesday-9.html

  56. OH me OH MY! That is one long wall with a lot of holes LOL How you stayed with this whole project is beyond me, you rock the DIY world. Hate to see any holes cut into the doors..they are so pretty.

  57. What a great tutorial. My in laws are putting barn doors in the master bedroom. I will be sharing this post with them. I would love if you came and linked up some of your great posts to my link party @ Show Off Monday on Kampen Lane. http://www.kampenlane.com/2012/06/show-off-monday-9.html


  58. Y I K E S ! ! That looks like one of MY projects – minus the thousand holes across the wall! lol Don’t you love the stuff we get ourselves into?! It looks fabulous. Glad you went with the lag bolts, that’s some pretty heavy duty looking hardware. Love the final look. It’s gorgeous!

  59. So now that you’re a pro, you should come hang some for me 😉

    GREAT job, Gail! I’m proud of you for hanging in there!! Looks like a pain but definitely worth it in the end, so pretty!

  60. GIRLfriend! You did a FANTASTIC JOB!!! This tutorial is fabulous…I could even do this. Now if I could just convince The Honey we NEED one of these doors.

    I must be honest…I’ve come here and scrolled through the pictures–and today I finally read the whole thing.
    Ya Done Good!

  61. Gail, what a great tute on this install! I felt like I was there with you, going thru all the trials and frustrations..(well, I sorta was, over the phone)
    Persistence pays off yet again, these doors are fabulous and you will enjoy them all the more because of what you had to work thru to get them up. (bet you will always think of the “stud finder” holes when you look over at that wall. lol)
    Love the suggestion above from Middle Child about the mousehole with the little door on it. sounds adorable.

  62. Wow…this is amazing! You never cease to amaze me…love it!

  63. Love! Excellent tutorial. I’ve wanted to find an alternative to the expensive hardware online and this is perfect!

  64. We have “mouse holes” in two of our doors. We also had a little door for the mouse holes that had little latches on them.

  65. What an adventure!:) I bet you’re glad you stuck with it, your doors look amazing!

  66. Wow – that is awesome!! I have an old house I am going to renovate this summer and I was looking into Barn Door hardware and it was like $350. I love what you did!!

    I shared it on my TT&J FB page. So cute!!


  67. thank you everyone! I read each and every comment and reply when I can!
    I’m so happy that you have found a solution. That’s why I do what I do, to help others.
    Good luck, and I hope you share your new door with me when it’s completed.


  68. Gail! Were you a fly on my wall or what? Our master bedroom has a large doorway that leads from bedroom to bathroom and NO DOOR! Yep NONE, NADA NECHE!!!
    I am a girl that needs her privacy in that room so we have been looking for a solution that suits us both and found a barn door would work. I was hesitant as every place we looked online wanted, as you mentioned, an arm, a leg, my first born and a payment plan…..then every hardware store we visited told us to go to tractor supply. We don’t have one in our tiny town but there is one about an hour and a half away. So it is certainly worth the trip we are now planning. Thank you for all the frustration and tantrums you had to endure for us. We certainly appreciate your efforts!!!! The doors are gorgeous and you know I sort of like the glossy color on the doors varying from the wall. It acts as a highlight without being an obvious slap you in the face sort of thing. The mouse hole is a really cute idea! I am certain the cats will love it. You could even do a different shaped hole, something really silly and fun that blends with your personality.
    Either way it looks great!!!
    Thank you again!
    Carolyn W.

  69. They look fantastic!! Great tutorial, too!

  70. i’ve been looking for a good tutorial for this, you did a great job thanks!

  71. They look amazing! I can’t believe that you had to swiss-cheese your poor wall like that ;-( I know it was a ton of work–but it’s a great look!

  72. I think I would cry if you cut a pet hole in one of the doors! They’re so pretty.

    Also, I had to laugh at your stud finding method. Ha ha!

  73. Oh, my gosh, Gail! FIrst of all, they look wonderful! Amazing, awesome, beautiful doors! But wow~I’m tired just reading all that! Good for you for sticking it out and getting it all put up. You’ve got some great doors! i’m going to have to refer back to this when we finally get our sliding door up. Thanks for not sugar coating any of it. We’ll know what to look out for now.

  74. I love this look, Thanks for sharing where you got the hardware. Great job.

  75. Great tut, Gail! Adjectives to describe you: tenacious, persistent, focused, stubborn, clever, pugnacious, creative…any body else?

  76. Gail,

    I have to praise you for your attention to detail! I love how you even spray painted the hardware just to match other items in your kitchen. It’s seem so small but once the doors were up it makes such a BIG difference!

    Keep up the hard work! Love visiting your site!



  77. There you go….you have done it again….fantastic.

  78. Absolutely amazing, Gail! They look fantastic! Thanks for the great tute. :)

  79. Fabulous Gail. I am featuring you on June4th


  80. WOWEE WOW WOW! that’s all.

  81. Those are just great, Gail. I could feel your frustration when things weren’t working out. I hope you realize that we all have days like that! I built a cat door into my laundry room and I’m so glad I did.
    (I blogged about it on Mar. 31, 2010 if you want to check it out)

  82. This is amazing, and I love these barn doors. YOU are amazing for tackling this diy!

  83. The doors look wonderful Gail! I love them. I’d put the pet door in that way you don’t have to keep them open all the time. Nicely done as always! Thanks for the great tutorial!


  84. These look great, but what an experience hanging them. Thanks for sharing about how it’s done. There are tons of them on Pinterest, and I’ve always wondered how difficult it was to do.

    Thanks, too, for sharing about TSC – I had no idea you could get them there, but it makes perfect sense I suppose.

    Thanks for another great learning/inspiration article. Love your stuff! Just might give it a go when I can see my way clear of woodworking projects, but I’ll do it with your printed blog post in hand for sure!

  85. Well first of all … WOW! They look awesome!
    I can’t believe you worked through all the trouble you had with finding the stud! Good girl… This was a major accomplishment and they look great!

  86. From one jaw dropping awesome project to the next, you totally rock!! i am constantly amazed at your abilities with power tools and knowledge, when i am having a major heart attack deciding how to go about painting an anique telephone table i found, lol

  87. I am so in love with these doors! I do wish I had a place to hang them in my house.

    The “mouse hole” for the cats hmmm… I can see advantages and disadvantages to it.

    Pro: less hot / cold air would be exchanged through the two rooms with the hole as opposed to leaving the doors cracked open.
    Con: you’d be putting a hole in the beautiful doors you just built!

    Is it possible to put a pet door in the wall to the right of the doors?

Thanks for sharing your thoughts with me! I read and appreciate every word!