DIY Entry Table

This DIY entry table was a fun and easy project using an old (FREE) door and some $1 table legs. Of course I had to add some new lumber components to finish off the trim and the shelves, but all in all, it was a very inexpensive project.

How to make a DIY entry table out of an old door

Isn’t it perfect? Initially I was going to make a console table that would rest on the wall using a cleat. Can you see that it would work were it not connected to the door?

Main components are a door and legs

But as I got started on the table design, I decided to add one of these free vintage doors I got a couple of months ago. The legs were 3.99, for four legs, but one of the legs was totally chewed up. So, I used two legs, and now have almost 2 more legs to use for another project. I could cut the fourth one off to match the height of the third one, or cut them even shorter for a small console side table. I could even use them to make some sort of spindle project..

Trim table legs on miter saw

The top of the table legs were at an angle, so the first step was to trim them to make them flush.

*this post contains affiliate links, you can read more here.*

Designing a DIY Entry Table

I cut two 1x4’s to use as the top skirt and the lower shelf brace. The skirt was used as is, but ripped the lower board to a more narrow size so that it would better fit the flat part of the legs.

Pocket hole screws secure table parts

I used my Kreg Jig pocket hole system to drill pocket holes to attach the skirt and lower brace to the table legs. This is where I would love to tell you that you could use “L” brackets to achieve the same install, but there are times when the best way (and only way) is with pocket holes.

A 1x4 is ¾” thick and would normally use 1 ¼” pocket hole screws to join the pieces together. When I’m joining ¾” to something larger, I choose to use a longer pocket hole screw—in this case 1 ½”.

If you want to start building furniture and or repurposing it, start taking a look at furniture pieces in your home to see how they are constructed. The skirt that goes across the front will look so much better if it is inset slightly. To achieve that I used a scrap piece of stock to raise the skirt off the work table slightly.

This same was done with the lower shelf brace. I placed it as far down the leg as possible, but being careful to stay on the flat part of the table leg.

Bar clamps aid in the building process

After the front braces were done, I moved on to the side braces. I would love to tell you that I made this table the “standard” depth, but truth be told I found some boards in my scrap pile, and cut them in half. THEY determined how deep the table would be. If you make a project like this you will want to make sure you take the thickness of your table legs into account.

In this image, you can clearly see how the boards are not at the outer edge of the table legs. In my opinion this will make your projects look much more professional when you pay attention to small details like this. I’ve learned the hard way.

Because I’m using ¾” stock, the screws recommended by Kreg would be 1 ¼”—but because the door is so thick I chose to go with a longer 2” pocket hole screw. I but all of my pocket hole screws in large quantities because I use so many of them.

If you would like more information, see my post How To Use A Kreg Jig.

Cut lumber for diy entry table

This is when it gets fun! Making the planks for the shelves makes it all come together. I mostly used 1x6 boards. For the top shelf, I ripped one of them because using three of them full size left too much of an overhang in the front.

The lower shelf was made using  2 1x6’s and notched out a 1x4.

For a finishing touch add header to top of door entry table

To keep the entryway table from looking like a full fledged door, I added a small 1x on the top and a piece of random trim I found in my stash. I used Gorilla Wood Glue and my nail gun to attach the pieces.

Stain boards

Because I love, love, love 2 toned furniture pieces I chose to stain the shelf boards in a dark walnut.

Test design before painting

I was so excited to try them on for size to see how they looked. I’ve made hall trees before, but I’m not sure I’ve made any quite like this. The closest one to this used a cabinet door for the table top.

Not shown, as I was scraping a little of the loose paint off, it really sort of just peeled off. You know like when you put on too many coats of nail polish, and you can literally peel off all the layers at once? I removed (and peeled the paint off) the hinges, knob, and door plate as well.

Time to paint

Here’s the entryway table in all it’s naked glory. Before adding the shelves, the entry table is a little top heavy so I placed one of my easy diy sawhorses at the back of the door to make sure the wind didn’t catch it and blow it over. Of course I used my favorite Homeright Finish Max to make this job quick, easy and flawless. Here’s where I keep it honest. See the run from the original paint job in the center of the upper panel. I sanded it, but I didn’t sand it enough.

It was very visible after the first two coats of diy chalky paint primer. ugh! When will I learn that paint does NOT cover up flaws? Originally I was going to paint this piece black. I’m running a little low on black paint, so I decided to prime it with this oops blue. NEWSFLASH! After I primed it, I fell in love with the color. As you know I sell 99% of all of my furniture pieces and I’m always trying to figure out what colors will move quickly. My last hall tree—the one I made with a nightstand, was painted green, and it has already found a new home.

Add glazing as a topcoat for definition and sealing

Although I loved the blue, I wanted to seal it and tone it down just a little. Since I wasn’t in the mood to wax this baby . . .

I used this Smoked Glaze “chalked” decorative glaze from Rust-oleum. I’m not sure if they sell it as a sealer, but it definitely seemed to protect the DIY chalky paint primer.

Watch my video of How To Glaze Painted Furniture

I thought I would add the hinges and all the hardware back to the door. In the end I decided to use everything but the hinges. I had taped off this side hardware when I painted the door blue. Now I used painter’s tape to spray paint the piece black.

Spray paint original hardware

I used the same black spray paint on the door knob and plate While I had my Homeright Spray Shelter set up for another project.

Here’s the “after”! Do you love it as much as I do? How about the blue? I know Mindi will love it! She paints everything Blue.

I truly wish I had a place to put this. Every time I make a hall tree I think it’s my favorite—until I make the next one.

 

Do you have a favorite? You can see all of my Repurposed Door Projects by clicking that link. Stop by Friday for details on the easy oval frame chalkboard makeover.

See More Hall Tree Project Ideas Here

gail